Although wool represented less than 1% of global fibre production in 2023, its output continues to grow. [1]. Thanks to its thermal and moisture-absorbing properties, it has become a fibre of choice for sportswear, especially in winter. If there is one fibre that could be produced in Quebec, it is definitely wool! However, the challenges facing the sector are numerous. Many of them echo what I heard during my visits to France in July 2025. This article highlights some inspiring initiatives and potential solutions for the future of this promising industry.
The journey of a fibre like no other
My journey began in Saint-Pierre-Roche, in the Puy-de-Dôme region, at Terre de Laine.
Terre de Laine is a SCOP (the French equivalent of a worker cooperative) whose mission is to find viable outlets for sheep’s wool produced locally. What you need to know is that in France, sheep wool is categorized as an animal by-product, in the same category as offal. This means that farmers cannot dispose of shearing waste through traditional waste channels, nor can they leave it out in the open on their land.
Before the Covid crisis, wool was mainly exported to China, but when the borders closed in 2020, this market collapsed and has not reopened since. With no alternatives left, farmers were stuck—until Nadège and her team stepped in. Terre de Laine buys the wool from farmers, giving them a small but important income to help offset shearing costs.
The main challenge, however, is working with coarse wools from different sheep breeds, which are not well-suited for clothing. Terre de Laine sorts, washes, and finds outlets for these fibres.
One wool in particular, which Nadège (the director) spoke about at length, is Rava wool. This wool comes in a variety of natural colours and retains some impurities even after washing. It cannot be spun into yarn (since debris could damage the machines), but is suitable for felting. Terre de Laine developed a wool-based insulation material for housing construction. The project took several years to come to life because, although wool is naturally insulating and fire-resistant, the building industry requires strict consistency to meet certification standards and ensure safety. That means you can’t just mix different wools together, as I naively imagined.
Other applications for this wool include yoga mats, cushion and blanket stuffing, and ironing pads.
Another challenge is the lack of local actors in the wool industry. In France, only one wool-washing facility remains, with another located in Belgium, where expertise dates back nearly 200 years. Nadège has no plans to open a new washing plant. Instead, she advocates for pooling resources. Opening a third facility would jeopardize the existing ones, whose production capacity already exceeds demand. Rather than weakening the ecosystem, she prefers collaboration.
Strengthening the ecosystem through collaboration
This collaborative approach is exactly what Lainamac promotes. This association supports the French wool industry by:
- Preserving and transmitting rare skills
- Supporting committed businesses
- Encouraging relocalization around local wool
- Showcasing the heritage of the sector
Located in the heart of Creuse, in Aubusson (the tapestry capital), the association offers training programs and shared workshops on felting, spinning, weaving, and knitting. We were guided by Maëlle, who welcomed us into a beautiful space overlooking the town.
The association has also carried out a project to classify and document the different types of French wool (https://lanatheque.fr/races-ovines/ — click here if you want to see lots of adorable sheep!) and offers a directory of local suppliers for designers interested in using French wool in their collections. Additionally, the association has received government funding to support the development of local manufacturing facilities.
Preserving cultural and industrial heritage
The spinning mill entrance
The final stop on this journey was the Fonty spinning mill, recognized with the “Living Heritage Company” label—and deservedly so!
Founded in 1880 in Creuse, Fonty specializes in spinning and dyeing wool yarns for hand knitting. Around 30 employees work on machines dating back to the 1950s, producing yarns of exceptional quality. The tour allowed us to see the full process, from spinning to winding and dyeing.
Fonty does not carry out the washing stage, which our guide explained is a completely different trade. About 30% of their wool comes from France, with the rest sourced from New Zealand, Australia, and other countries. To maintain its “Living Heritage” certification, the company is committed to continuing its traditional manufacturing methods. This is why most of their machines are from the 1950s, carefully maintained and repaired by the employees, who receive continuous training.
In 2025, the company is expanding its facilities. They are acquiring old machines, restoring them, and putting them back into service to remain true to their values. This achievement represents the culmination of many years of hard work, especially since, like many businesses in the sector, Fonty nearly closed its doors several times.
I feel privileged to have visited such remarkable companies. Despite the difficulties the sector faces, it is inspiring to witness a collective effort to revitalize an industry so close to my heart.
